Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
